Over the last two weeks I have been working on my latest release, the Baldwin DT6-6-2000, in this post I wanted to share with you the finished model and how we did it.
Following on from my last post about this model in which I showed you the test print, I needed to make some more minor changes to the 3D computer model. In particular there were a few concerns about the thickness of the window frames in the cab. Although the test print had printed successfully, these parts where incredibly thin and posed the possibility that they could get damaged in the shipping and handling process. This has now been improved in the 3D model. Also, and I had to laugh when I did this, the engineers cap had the same problem. He has now been outfitted in much sturdier attire.
With the model successfully printable and available to all it was time to turn my attention to finishing the test print and making it into a proper model. For this I once again handed the model over to Bob Norris to paint and decal.
As with all my models which are printed in the FUD (Frosted Ultra Detail) material it needed to be cleaned to remove the waxy residue left over from the print process. You can read more about doing this in my FAQ section.
Once cleaned, as you can see from the photos below, a lot more of the detail becomes visible. These photos were taken not long after the model was removed from the Goo Gone, it will turn totally white and opaque in about 24 hours.
The body shell and truck side frames were then sprayed black all over, the intention was to use decals to get the silver tiger stripe look.
This is where we had a bit of a shock because the decals we had were not silver but black. This meant that the areas intended to be striped needed to be painted silver.
The silver was brush painted and when dry the decals were applied.
Microscale 60-247 is a set of decals which are silver and will work for this model without the need to paint any silver, you can find them here.
The engineer and cab interior was also hand painted and glued inside the shell. He is very small but he is visible through the window. A lot of the photographs of these engines show the windows open so one of the verticals has been removed to represent this.
To add glazing to the unopened windows and doors Bob used Micoscale’s Kristal Klear. This is a great product which quickly allows you to add small window glazing to models. Another alternative would be to use small rectangles of clear plastic sheet and glue them to the inside of the shell. The rear of the doors and windows are recessed to help with this.
With all the decals applied and the shell just about finished it was time to look at lighting the engine. Because the chassis came from an Atlas C-628 the LEDs on the circuit board are shorter than the shell to allow for the cab. The light is transferred to the headlights via a clear plastic path, similar to a fiber optic cable. My 3D printed shells don’t have this clear plastic path. But the inside of the headlights have a pilot hole ready incase you want to add lights. This can be done very easily using either the original circuit board for DC (Direct Current) or a drop in decoder for DCC (Digital Command Control).
This particular model will be DCC and the original circuit board has been replaced with a Digitrax decoder, model number DN163A0. Before the decoder was fitted Bob replaced the LEDs with longer ones as pictured below. Then he drilled through the headlights in the shell, the LEDs on the decoder line up with the headlights in the shell.
Another alternative would be to use the Digitrax sound decoder SDN144A0. Because the chassis is recessed, as shown on the left of the above photo, there is more than enough room for the speaker and capacitor, although you may need to extend the wires to make it all fit.
Once the main body was painted the handrails were added. I have supplied handrails with all the shells but they are not attached in their final location. This gives the modeller the choice of using finer brass wire or an equivalent to getter a smaller rail detail and it also makes it easier to paint the shell. For this model Bob used the supplied printed handrails. They come inside the shell on a sprue for protection and need to be cut out, this is a delicate process as they are very fragile and brittle. The sprue also braces the shell throughout the print and cleaning process at the Shapeways factory. Once the sprue has been removed all 6 handrail sections can be removed and painted. I have supplied very small dimples or holes in the shell to act as locators for the handrails. These also act as guides to help if you are adding your own wire handrails. Bob glued the painted handrails onto the shell, here is what they look like.
To complete the model bob used decals from the Microscale sheet 60-247 to add the numbers and AT&SF road markings, he then sealed the paint and decals with a coat of Testers Dulcote. The shell was fitted back onto the chassis and here are the results.
These shots were taken on Bob’s DC layout so capturing it with the lights on is not so easy but as you can see from he action shot below, they do work
So there we have AT&SF No. 2601, a Baldwin DT6-6-2000 in N Scale. You can get your own here or we can provide ‘Ready to Run’ models upon request. In a later post I will share some videos of this locomotive running, maybe teamed up with AT&SF No. 2602.